No Room for Watermelons by Ron Fellowes

Author:Ron Fellowes [Fellowes, Ron]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Vintage Motorcycles, Motorcycle Touring, Biography
ISBN: 9781925280203
Publisher: High Horse Books
Published: 2015-01-28T00:00:00+00:00

19

Crazy Mohammad

The truck-repair man pumped up my back tyre and gave me a bag of oranges before I rode on. Within a few minutes, being weary and unable see my way, I realised it was all too hard, so I pulled off the road, spread my sleeping bag and mattress in a culvert, and dossed down.

At some time, I was wakened by a figure leaning over me. ‘Mohammad has told me I must put your bike on my truck and take you to his homestay,’ he urged. Even though he said Mohammad’s place was only a short drive away, I was determined to stay where I was. When I managed to persuade the man that I was okay, he bade me goodnight and drove off.

Next morning I spotted oil under the bike, closer inspection a broken pipe to the engine. I decided to chance it, and my luck held into Toudeshk, on a plateau at 2100 metres: no wonder I had been cold the night before until I had snuggled into my sleeping bag.

After a warming breakfast at Tak-Taku, its owner, Mohammad Jalali, took me to a refrigeration repair shop where a new pipe was made in no time at all. Yet again, my offer of payment was refused.

Later, while wandering in the dusty alleyways of the old part of Toudeshk, where ochre mud walls blended with a backdrop of dry, open desert, I was intrigued by an ancient domed reservoir. It seems that, during the hot summer months, as wind travels through the brick towers, (bagdirs) it cools the water, 15 metres below.

As the only roadside lodging between Isfahan and Yazd, Tak-Taku is a delight for travellers who appreciate the clean accommodation and superb home-cooked dishes provided by Mohammad and his family.

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